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Question
&Answers
When should I start seeding my Lawn?
Reseeding
or over-seeding your lawn can be done several times a year. Plan
to seed in the spring during April and May. If you apply a new
seeding fertilizer, then make sure you do not feed again for at
least a 6-week period (or up to two lawnmowings). New seeding
fertilizer, lime, seed, and peat moss (to top dress) can all be
applied on the same day. You may wish to use a fertilizer that
includes crabgrass preventer depending on how late in the season
you are seeding. The next time to consider seeding will begin
in September. Again, if you use a new seeding fertilizer, make
sure you wait at least 6-weeks (and up to two lawnmowings). And
one last winter seeding may begin during January and February.
Regardless of when you’re seeding, it is very important that
you remove the thatch from your existing lawn. This should be
your first step, as the seed requires contact with your soil to
germinate. If you are applying seed to an existing lawn, it is
important that you know what type of turf currently grows there
so you can try to use a comparable seed. You will find seed mixes
for all types of sun or shade conditions, but you still want your
lawn to remain consistent.
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When
should I begin planting my annual flowers?
General
rule of thumb for all tender annual flowers is May 15th.
Certain cold-hardy plants commonly used as annuals, such as pansies
and primrose, can be planted earlier. Still most annuals are tender,
and will not be successful if exposed to frost conditions.
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When
should I begin planting my summer flowering bulbs, tubers, and corms?
Summer
flowering bulbs such as Dahlias, Cannas, and Gladiolus will be
following a similar schedule as annual flowers for planting times.
You will want to schedule your planting for a time when the soil
has reached about 50° (10° C); it’s usually safe
by mid-April. This will protect the plant from the cold while
still allowing enough time for the bulb/tuber/corm to generate
a healthy body. Also, you could start these bulbs/tubers/corms
indoors during specified times for each plant. More information
about dates for starting these plants indoors can be found here
at Bloomers or wherever these plants are sold!
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When
is the best time to start feeding my roses?
Most Rose
enthusiasts suggest feeding a minimum of 3 times a year. To make
this easy, remember: once on Memorial Day, once on Fathers day,
and once on Labor Day. But it is important to realize that roses
are heavy feeders and will need a steady diet of food to maintain
their flower production. You will not want to feed any hard fertilizers
until approaching May, though Bone Meal can be applied anytime
to encourage root growth. From May to September 1st, we suggest
using fertilizers that also contain a systemic insecticide. This
will not only help flower production, but it will protect the
rose against chewing and sucking insects. No hard fertilizers
should be used after this date to discourage tender growth before
winter. Roses can also be pampered by using your favorite liquid
soluble fertilizer once a week throughout the growing season.
This will help to fortify the color and substance of the flower
itself, giving you roses that are even better than the local florist!
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What
is the proper way to prune my roses?
Pruning is
the second most asked question when it comes to roses. It is an
ongoing chore from the time the forsythia blooms till late fall.
It requires you to reduce the size of the rose and remove all
dead wood, so you can generate new canes on which new roses will
bloom. The only exemption to this is in climbers, which bloom
on the previous years canes (called second year wood). All that’s
needed is to remove dead wood and eliminate weak canes. Most hybrid
tea and floribunda roses are pruned back to a height of 14"-20"
in the spring with emphasis on keeping only canes that are healthy
and larger than the width of a pencil. If you would like a larger
bush, just remove dead wood and prune lighter. All pruning and
Summer Rose Cutting scars (on the shoot) should be sealed immediately
with Elmers Glue (not the child-safe brand) so to prevent potential
borer damage. Make sure your in-season rose cuttings are made
at an angle just above the spot on the shoot where you first see
5 leaflets.
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When
(and how) should I prune my woody plant material?
There
are two major times to prune based on what type of plant it is.
Shrubs that form flowers on new growth should be pruned when the
plant is dormant (before the buds show green). Plants that form
a bloom on 1-year-old wood should be pruned just after the blossoms
have faded. You will find a thickened ring at the base of the
branch, at the point where it began growing. This ring is called
the branch collar, and should not be removed when pruning, as
it is needed to eventually grow over and cover the scar. The final
cut should be made just above the branch collar. If you are pruning
a large branch, you may consider removing the bulk of the branch/weight
before you make the final cut to protect against splitting or
torn bark around the collar region. And before you begin any garden
pruning take the time to sharpen your blades. In many cases, pruning
with a jagged or dull blade may leave your plant more susceptible
to disease issues and less likely to heal properly.
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What
should I be feeding my shrubs with in the spring?
General
rule-of-thumb for spring feeding is to stick to slow release (usually
organic) fertilizers until the soil temperature begins to rise.
This application includes the very popular Holly Tone. Applying
a food that has little or no resistance to time will be a waste,
until the plant foliage is ready to flush out. Once the spring
has begun you can then apply your quicker-release, inorganic fertilizers.
For many of your acid loving plants, you can begin feeding liquid
fertilizers (such as Miracid etc). By the middle of the summer,
you may wish to begin feeding with various supplemental minerals
and nutrients (such as Ironite etc). This will protect your plant
material against burning while still providing food for healthy,
colorful, and sizable growth.
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How
soon can I plant?
Our
#1 most popular question, regardless what time of year, is "Is
it a good time to Plant?" And the answer 90% of the time
is ABSOLUTELY! Your only major concern with planting will be heat,
and that will not be a threat until the middle of the summer.
During this time, you can still plant but with simple precautions.
You must protect the foliage of these plants during transporting.
Summer heat and heavy wind (moving vehicle) are a bad combination.
Then you will need to be available to water your plant, and monitor
its health, especially during the first few weeks its been planted.
So begin your hardy spring gardening as soon as you’re comfortable
outside. This can include planting, transplanting, and even pruning
of hardy plant material. But be careful not to prune hardy plants
that bloom throughout the spring. You’ll want to wait until
after these plants have bloomed. Planting is also difficult during
times of intense cold, as the ground may still be frozen near
the surface. So winter plantings are usually more difficult.
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What
amendments will I need to add to my soil when planting?
General
planting instructions are as follows:
- Dig a hole
1 to 2 times the width and depth of the root ball.
- If soil
is poorly drained then apply a thin layer of small (3/4")
stone in the base.
- Set the
root-ball in the center of the hole.
- Use the
shovel point to collapse the walls of the hole.
- Align the
plant so it remains straight.
- Remove all
string etc. from the base of the trunk.
- Backfill
around the root-ball with soil mix of 50% your soil, and 50% soil
conditioner.
- Soil conditioner
should include an even mix of compost, peat, and sand.
Many times
compact soils are overlooked. Air pockets are just as important
to most root systems as the water and mineral nutrients that
channel through them. If you are concerned that a loose soil
will not support the plant against wind etc, then you should
use a stake kit rather then packing the soil around the plant.
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